Padded garment construction



March 28, 1944. L BAYES PADDED GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed June 22, 1943 I NVENTOR 1 ZZeBWs I Patented Mar. 1944 2,345,527 7 mom-:1) GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Lucille Bayes, Basking Ridge, N. 1., assignor to Aywon Dress 00. Inc., New York. N. Y.

Application June 22, 1943, Serial No. 491,848

. 6 Claims.

My invention relates to a method for the construction of a garment and particularly to the provision of a means for the lifting and extending of shoulder heights of said garment.

An object of the invention is to provide a simple means, easily adjustable for shoulder lifting or shoulder extension for garments made of sheer material, such as womens dresses, suits and coats; and also for mens light suits or coats without the requirement or utilization of front and back linings, or front and back lining members' with inner facings or other cumbersome intricate means for the construction or retention of shoulder padding.

Shoulder padding has been known for years. The employment of padding, however, in the construction of a garment required detailed fastening means, or the use of superfluous linings, or the employment of garment body linings with double facings, and other more or less involved, costly and cumbersome methods of manufacture.

Heretofore known methods of shoulder padding required expert understanding of construction in garments and such understanding was necessary on the part of clothing handlers or their alteration tailors they being obliged to alter the padding of garments in conformity to the wearers figure.

My invention obviates the need of a knowledge of the details of construction of shoulder padding .in that it permitsthe substitution of padding of any desired degree of shoulder height or shoulder width in accordance with the requirements of the wearer without requiring any alterations of the garment itself.

Another object of my invention is to enable the wearer to remove and re-insert the padding in the garment at will without fastening or unfastening means.

Another object of my invention is to keep the padding in taut position regardless of the posture of the wearer.

A further object of my invention is to enable the wearer of a garment to obtain a smooth finished press on the shoulder and around the armhole of said garment whenever repressing the .same, thereby giving said garment the effect of crisp newness; an advantageheretofore not accomplished.

Still another object of my invention is to prevent wrinkles in the frontand back lining members in a garment such linings having been heretofore required forretention means of the aforementioned pad or padding.

The advantages as set forth in the foregoing are obtained in my method of shoulder padding with a minimum of cost and without resort to additional materials and without the need for costly steps in fabrication, being simple to manufacture and easy to produce.

All of the aforesaid advantages will be seen from the following detailed description in the practical embodiment, and novel construction as shown in the accompanying drawing, in which- I Fig. 1 is a regulation garment front on the line a-a of a regulation armhole.

Fig. 2 illustrates the armhole slightly on the line b-b.

Fig. 3 shows the conforming regulation armhole of the back of a garment, said armhole being also conformingly extended on the line la -b to match the extension of the armhole at the front thereof. I

It is understood that the extension pieces b--b illustrated in Fig. 2 and the extension pieces 12 -42 shown in Fig. 3 can be also attached to the regulation armhole instead of being extended from the same goods of front and back.

Fig. 4 illustrates the front and back members of a garment joined at the shoulder.

Fig. 5 illustrates the head of a regulation sleeve, the circumference ED whereof is made to match into the circumference of the armhole of the garment at L-P. I

Fig. 6 is an enlarged view of two triangular strips KMG and M-H-G, stitched to a base K-HG, of which the hypotenuse KG is equal in lengths-to the hypotenuse HG, and also equal the distances F-S and TS shown in Fig. 4. he lines K-H of the triangular piece of fabric is also equal in dimension to the line F-.-T on the garment illustrated in Fig. 4.

The front and back of the garment are joined first, after which the sleeve head ED is inserted in the armhole LP leaving portion FT or a corresponding part projecting inwardly into the sleeve to give the squared effect to the shoulder. The triangular strip is joined to the extended portions of the armhole along the lines F--T and TS and F-S. The free end at point G is secured to point S of the neckline, shown in Fig.

extended 4. By thus securing the free end of the triangular piece, a shoulder reinforcement is formed which keeps the shoulder of the garment from riding back and forth, thereby avoiding an awkward appearance bl the garment as in relation to the wearer's changed postures. and

through the mere attachment of the before illustrated triangular strips to the armhole extensions of the garment itself, and by securing the free ends of these strips to the said garment thereby having the fabric of said garment serve the purpose of a base.

In this manner I take the triangular 'strips K-M-G and M-H-G of Fig. 6, omitting the base appearing in said figure, and secure said strips in coordinative relative positions to the body of the garment itself along the lines F-S and T--S, and F--T of Fig. 4. In such event, the pocket is formed without the additional base K-I-I-G, the outer goods of the garment forming the base.

While there is illustrated but one sleeve of the garment, it is understood that the opposite side of the garment is treated in a similar manner.

Fig. 7 shows the pocket retention means and opening thereof as heretofore described.

Fig. 8 is an illustration of the padded bag used for the insertion into the slip at the shoulder pad of the garment and is made to conform to the size and shape of the casing aforesaid.

Fig. 9 further illustrates in a detached view, the manner in which the padding is, slipped into the retainer bag or casing J.

While Ihave described a novel method of constructing a padding for a shear garment, the invention can also be applied to garments made of any weight, materials or any type of fabric.

It is understood that the size and'form of the shoulder slip and padding bag may be changed as desired, thereby enabling the wearer at will to have a higher or lower shoulder expansion. It is furthermore understood that any of the changes so provided for fall under the appended claims.

The herein illustrated method is not controlled or limited by the formation of revers or collar extensions; the simple means of manufacture thus provided by this method makes it practicable to apply the same to a washable item of manufacture, as well as for garments that do not have to be laundered without the need for ripping the garment structure or detaching any members of garments are often submitted while in the proces of renovation, repairing or laundering, or upon being re-pressed.

While I have referred to triangular shaped pieces as the preferable construction of my novel method of shoulder padding, the invention is capable of some modification other than that described herein without departing from the spirit of the invention, for instance, oblong, elliptical, oval and other similar shapes. Hence the invention is to be understood as limited only as indicated in the appended claims, in which the intent is set forth all novelty over the prior art.

Now having described my invention, what I claim is:

1. In a method for constructing shoulder padding for a garment, said method consisting in extending the armhole portions of said garment, a triangular piece having a base dimensionally equal in length to the extended armhole piece of said garment and having its apex reach the neck line point at the center of shoulder of garment, said triangular piece having two companion pieces, each of said companion pieces being equal in dimension to one half of said triangular piece, the said two half pieces being stitched at their outer sides and at their base to the relative outer sides of the companion triangular piece, the inner sides of said half pieces being free, forming thereby a casing with a center pocket for the inserting of and the removing therefrom a conformingly fitted padded pillow, the base of said triangular casing being stitched to the extended edge of said armhole piece of the garment, the apex of said casing being secured to the neckline point of the garment aforesaid.

2. In a method for the forming of a case and.

a padding for a garment at the shoulder thereof, and extending therefrom said method consisting of extending the upper armhole portions of said garment, a triangular piece halved at its center, the base of said triangular piece being stitched to the outer edge of said armhole extensions, the outer sides of said triangular piece and apex thereof being secured to said garment at the relative points, forming thereby a pocket means with the free ends at the center thereof for the insertion of and removable therefrom of a.dimensionally conforming padded pillow.

3. In a method for constructing shoulder padding for a garment which consists of two comatching companion triangular pieces, a bottom piece and a matching superimposing piece, the

the finished garment. The simplicity of this method of manufacture of a garment enables the ost thereof to be adaptable to garments of lower price range since said method substantially reduces material and labor requirements.

While I have referred in the drawing and description thereof specifically to dresses and suits for women, or suits for men, this method is equally applicable to coats for children, women and men as well as any other garments which require the use of padding, as for instance, garments for irregular or deformed figures, etc.

Theavoidance of the use of underlinings to form the front yoke and the back yokes of the garment, as heretofore employed, furthermore prevents wrinkling when pressing and makes provision for the easy removal and replacement of the pad. The invention also serves to reduce upper-piece being, halved at the'center thereof, said two triangular pieces seamed together at their outer sides, forming thereby a casing, the free inner sides of said casing forming pocket means in said casing for the insertion of and removing therefrom of a conformingly fitted pillow case, strips of fabric stitched at one end to. the armhole at the shoulder portion of said garment, forming thereby shoulder armhole extensions, the free side of said strip extension stitched to the base of said triangular casing, the apex of said triangular piece secured to the garment aforesaid.

4. In a method for the forming of a case and a pad for a garmentat the shoulder portions thereof, said method consisting of a strip of fabric stitched to the armhole at the shoulder portion of said garment and extending the armhole thereby, two triangular pieces stitched at their bases to the free end of said extension strip of fabric, the outer sides of said triangular pieces and the apex thereof secured to said garment,

and the inner sides of said triangular pieces being free, forming thereby a pocket with a center opening for the insertion and removal of a conformingly fitted padded pillow.

5. In a method for constructing shoulder padding for a garment, which method consists of extending armhole portions of said garment, a curved piece halved at its center, the base of said curved piece being wider than its apex and being stitched to the conforming shaped outer edge of extended armhole portion of said garment, the ircumference of said curved piece being secured said garment at relative points, the halved center portion of said curved piece being free and forming thereby pocket means for the re-insertion and removal of a dimensionally conforming padded pillow.

6. In a method for constructing shoulder padof'said bottom piece, the center portion of said half pieces being free, the said seamed pieces forming thereby a casing with a pocket opening; said casing being stitched at its base to the edge of the extended armhole pieces and the apex of said casing being secured to the garment at the shoulder neck-line point of said garment, a padded pillow fitted and shaped to conform to said triangular casing and insertibie within or removable therefrom.

LUCILLE BAYES. 

